Wednesday 2 March 2016

03. The Smuggler - Puffy shirt & Doublet

Year: 2012/2013
Source: Assassin's Creed: Brotherhood multiplayer
Materials: Cotton voile, vinyl, lining, cotton duck, braid, grosgrain ribbon
Conventions attended: Supanova 2013, PAXAus 2013, Chaoz 2014

Photo: Brett Woolgar Photography
Convention: Chaoz 2014

There are buttons on the inside of the doublet to attach the shirt collar and tails to.

It's been a few years since I made this costume so I'm going to try and remember as many details as possible. Please bear in mind that it was my first ever costume and I had very little, if any, costume-making knowledge back then and very basic sewing tools. A lot of it was experimentation and making mistakes.
  
Doublet pattern

I copied the base pattern off a jacket I already owned and drew out a new pattern with highlighters. I made a toile from old bed sheets.


I used a stiff iron-on interfacing on the vinyl and ended up hand-sewing most of it because it was too hard to put through the machine. I wanted it to be fairly stiff and armour-like. The doublet ended up being re-made about 3 times, I think because I wasn't happy with certain things.

Pinned together. This was a bit risky...
The puffy shirt was made from Simplicity 2809 Renaissance Costume Collection. The sleeves were super puffy and I ended up having to cut off some of the sleeve width.


The shoulder tabs.

Embroidery down the front of the doublet

The pattern was created in Illustrator which I scaled to fit the doublet piece exactly. I traced it onto tissue paper and pinned it in place to hand stitch it with cream embroidery floss.

The doublet was lined with satin lining. The cream braid was hand sewn onto all the seam lines.


I purchased the Tandy Leather buckles and fashion stud domes from eBay. Each stud was roughly spaced out and attached by hand. The doublet closes with hook/eye fasteners.



I drew on the swirls with gold and silver paint pens. I didn't know how else to do it. 

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